Welcome to
Sparkling untouched lagoons
Labengki is probably as close to heaven as you can get.
Completely unspoiled, hidden and unknown to tourists, Labengki boasts dazzling turquoise lagoons, dolphin-filled warm waters and crispy bright beaches.
Have clear lagoons and beaches all to yourself!
No big hotels, internet connection or commercial transport is available. Instead you will live in an eco water-villa in the midst of a beautiful lagoon neighbouring the native gypsy tribe. Disconnect completely and immerse yourself in true paradise.
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dolphins and bounty beaches
Not only does Labengki look incredibly breath-taking, it also offers a lot of activites. Imagine you want to spend your first day visiting the nearby coconut palm-lined beach seen in the photo to the left. On your way back to the lagoon during sunset you sail amongst dolphins who follow you home. In the following days you might visit another lagoon so isolated and tranquil that you have to climb a big rock-wall to get inside, kayak around the nearby islands and lagoons all on your own, visit the neighbouring archipelago and marine sanctuary, greet the local gypsy tribe in small their village, set up camp on a beach of your choice and enjoy the star filled night sky from the gentle swing of a hammock.
This is exactly what our trip to Labengki was like, and much more.
Contents:
All our photos are without filters and editing, to capture the true natural beauty of each location. What you see is what you get.
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Unfiltered photos
The lagoons, beaches and adventures
Let's begin our journey...
It all began on a calm and humid morning. We woke up in our small provincial hotel, and were picked up by our contact person who drove us to the local harbor. At the harbor a long and very narrow wooden boat was waiting for us. It was going to take us to Pulau Labengki. Our dream place which we had discovered by chance, and which only a handful of western people have ever visited. After around 3 hours of sailing, a tall green palm-filled island began appearing in the distance, growing taller and taller as the wooden boat elegantly flowed through the marble black morning sea. It looked like we arrived at the island from Jurassic Park, and lagoons and limestone cliffs began appearing to the left and right of the boat. The black sea slowly turned blue and eventually emerald turquoise. Dolphins were jumping up and down at both sides of the boat as we came closer to the archipelago.
We were going to live here for the next week.
No internet. No phone signal. No other western people. No hotels. Only nature. And a wooden water-villa with a matress.
This was the beginning of a trip we would never forget.
Pulau Labengki
This tranquil lagoon is where we were staying. In a wooden villa directly on the water. This lagoon is home to a number of eco huts and nothing else. So serene and beautiful. Start your day by jumping from your hut directly into the emerald water. Go kayaking around the rocks at sunset, and spend your nights on the beach in the hammocks gazing up at the starry sky.
The two black wires that can be seen in the picture is a zipline which can take you to the small island seen in the distance.
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To learn more about accommodation, prices and how to get there, read our "Accommodation and how to get there" section.
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Heart shaped lagoon
Seen from above, this dazzling emerald green lagoon has the shape of a heart. It lies on Pulau Labengki, directly behind the lagoon where you will be staying and can be reached in one minute from one of the water villas through the back-entrance of the compound. If you make a left up the rocky stairs you will reach high ground with an incredible view of the lagoon.
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Go Kayaking
Set off on your own journey, and visit some of the countless small beaches. Pick your favorite and set up camp there. You can even spend the night there if you like it. Take a dive anywhere you want to, and go explore!
Any beach can be yours
With the kayak as your personal vessel, any of the countless pristine beaches can be visited quickly and safely without having to sail into open sea. The waters in Labengki are extremely warm and calm, so taking a dive straight out of your kayak when you find a nice spot is something we did a lot! Claim a beach of your own, lie in the shade of the trees and look out at the crystal clear water at your disposal. No other human beings will be in sight.
Pulau Sombori
Pulau Sombori is known as the "mini Raja Ampat". For those who are unaware, Raja Ampat is a beautiful Indonesian archipelago and a very expensive divers heaven. Pulau Sombori is just as beautiful as Raja Ampat, but in a smaller scale by all means, including number of tourists. The photo above was captured on top of a tall cliff that we climbed. Unfortunately, the day we visited Sombori was a very gray day with clouds filling up the entire sky (the only cloudy day of our entire trip to Labengki), but still the incredible bursts of sparkling emerald water around the limestone cliffs can be seen. In sunlight this place becomes even more magical as the colors of the water get even more extreme. Pulau Sombori is one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen, and it is incredible that it is so unknown to tourists. It looks even better in real life, and swimming around that heavenly water between those magnificent limestone cliffs just fills you with a sense of freedom and happiness. There are plenty of spots to visit at Sombori including big caves.
Long beach
On one of our boat trips, just when we crossed around the corner of Pulau Labengki, this beach could be seen in the distance on one of the nearby islands.
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Our boatman noticed our interest in the beach and asked us if we wanted to sail over there and chill for a while.
We told him we'd love to, and as our boat approached the beach, crystal clear water were spread out before us with corals everywhere.
The beach is totally deserted and the whole island is uninhabited, so we were the only ones on the beach.
The sand is so soft and fine and the line of coconut palm trees provide shelter when you need a break from the sun.
a big group of dolphins followed us home
On our way back from this trip, just before sunset, a big group of dolphins emerged in front and on the sides of the boat. They jumped up and down the water playfully and followed us home. It was such a perfect and amazing moment, with the red sun providing a soothing sparkling backdrop.
Twin Sapphire Pool Lagoons
Located 10 minutes away from Pulau Labengki is a lone beach with a rocky cliff wall. Our guide told us to climb the steep wall because there was a hidden lagoon on the other side. This was not an easy climb, and luckily he had brought rubber-climbing shoes for us.
A 5 meter cliff wall has to be climbed
The climb is not gentle, since no stairs or steps has been made in the rock walls. Nothing in Labengki is made for tourists, and therefore everything is wonderfully natural. We are by no means expert climbers, and still we managed to scale the wall without any injuries, but you really have to be careful because the limestone rocks are razor sharp. This is the only way to enter the lagoon, and what lies on the other side is really worth the effort!
You will have the lagoon all to yourself
When you reach the top, you will discover a big tranquil pool of milky-blue water completely surrounded by cliff walls and lush vegetation.
This was a magnificent sight, and by far the most secluded and calm lagoon we have seen in all our travels. Since Labengki is so much off the radar, you will have this lagoon all to yourself. We really enjoyed this special moment, and it is something we never forget.
There is absolutely no movement in the water, not even a single ripple, because it is completely surrounded by cliffs. It looks like a big soft blue bed, and taking that first jump into the water and breaching its soft still surface is so satisfying!
So quiet you can hear a pin drop
The two lagoons are connected by a small pathway
The second chamber of the lagon can be reached through a small pathway of rocks and branches. The second chamber is just as beautiful as the first one, but has less rocks around the edge and more vegetation instead. This means that you will have a harder time finding a place to rest when you get exhausted from all the swimming, but you can always return to the pathway and have a sit there.
Inside the lagoon there is no wind or waves. It is so quiet that you can hear a single raindrop falling. Everything is so calm and only a few birds can sometimes be heard in the distance. The water is incredibly refreshing. The lagoon's water is cold compared to the warm sea water, and contains no salt, so it feels silky smooth and also requires a bit of extra effort to swim in. The size of the lagoon is actually really big, which is not easily seen in our photos. We estimate the diameter to be around 20 meters. As the name we have given the lagoon suggests, the lagoon has two chambers.
Big Lagoon
On our last day at Labengki, we sailed out towards a nearby cove. Our captain had told us that the chances of being able to sail into the cove is very dependent on the weather. This is because the cove is formed in such a way that waves appear near the entrance which can be dangerous to sail into, and difficult to get back out from. He stopped his boat in front of the cove and looked at the waves near the entrance. After a moment of thoughtful silence, he said that he would attempt to sail the boat in between the rocks. Luckily he succeeded, and what we found inside was a magnificent calm beach with a short opening into a huge beautiful lagoon.
The water in this lagoon is salty sea water as opposed to the fresh water of the blue sapphire lagoon. Dipping into this water does not feel as fresh and smooth, but on the other hand swimming is a lot easier and you can float around on your back in the calm waveless pool and enjoy the sun, the silence and the solitude.
Accommodation
Accommodation
For accommodation you have three options: you can live directly on Pulau Labengki inside the lagoon which is the best and also most the expensive option, you can live on a nearby beach which is cheaper and not as exclusive, and finally you can live in a local homestay which is the cheapest option.
Pulau Labengki
The good:
Most beautiful location.
Most activites to do by yourself.
Best rooms and facilities.
English speaking guide.
All-inclusive.
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The bad:
Most expensive.
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Price range: $100-200 pr. person pr. night. Note: this is all-inclusive of all transportation, all speed boat tours, guides, 3 meals a day and water.
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Nearby beach
The good:
Beautiful location.
Affordable.
The bad:
Doesn't include transportation and speed boat tours.
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Price range: $50 pr. person pr. night. Note: this is inclusive of 3 meals a day and water, but NOT inclusive of any tours or transportation.
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Local homestay
The good:
Very affordable.
The bad:
Doesn't include transportation and speed boat tours.
Very primitive facilities.
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Price range: $22 pr. person pr. night. Note: this is inclusive of 3 meals a day and water, but NOT inclusive of any tours or transportation.
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We stayed at Pulau Labengki since we had no problem paying the extra money for such an amazing location. Being able to kayak around by ourselves amongst the limestone cliffs was an amazing experience. The two other accommodation options are also good, but our guess is that you will have to rely on the tours you have booked when you want to go explore. In Pulau Labengki there is always something to explore on your own.
Also keep in mind, that the price for Pulau Labengki is all-inclusive of all transportation, boat tours and 3 meals a day.
You can read more details about the accommodation at Pulau Labengki below.
This is the lagoon where you can stay in Pulau Labengki.
Pulau Labengki
We stayed directly in the lagoon at Pulau Labengki. There are currently three accommodation options in the lagoon; dorm room, simple water cottage and big water villa. Two water cottages can be seen on the picture above all the way to the right of the board walk, the dorm can be seen as the larger house in the middle, and the water villas can be seen to the left in the distance and are more isolated. The water cottages lie close to the restaurant and bathrooms which are not visible in the picture due to trees.
Primitive showers and food
Everything in the lagoon is very primitive, close to nature and eco friendly. The shared bathrooms in the lagoon are wooden sheds built upon rocks, and they are used by the cottage and dorm residents while the villa residents have their own private bathroom inside the villa. One of them shared bathrooms features a western standard toilet while the other bathroom has an Indonesia style toilet which is basically a hole in the floor which you have to squat over. Both bathrooms has primitive showers which are basically plastic pipes with fresh water coming out in one big jet. While the showers are very primitive and has no warm water, they are so refreshing since they use fresh water and not sea water, so you can clean out that salt from your hair after a day of swimming. After the shower you can step outisde in the sun for a couple of minutes and you will be warm and dry quickly. If you don't like the idea of a primitive shared bathroom, we recommend you go for the most expensive option - the water villa with private bathroom. It is worth mentioning that the cleanliness is very good, but one day we saw a big black thick spider sitting under the toilet. Needless to say, we used the other bathroom for the rest of our stay.
3 meals a day are included, which is primitive Indonesian style, but still very delicious. The recurring dishes are rice, fried fish and my personal favorite, tempeh, which can best be described as an Indonesian style spicy tofu. It is so good!
water villa
water cottage
The water villas can accommodate up to 6 people, and the water cottage can accommodate up to 4. We opted for the cheap water cottage which is beautifully located right on the sparkling water. It has a back door leading out to a small porch behind the cottage from where you can jump directly into the water, and climb right back up via a ladder. The inside of the cottage is very primitive. Good matresses are provided, but a part from that there's not really anything else inside worth mentioning. One downside to this otherwise wonderful cabin is that the walls and the ceiling aren't connected. This means that there is a big gap in either end of the cabin, where wind can come rushing through. They say that this is a natural "air conditioner" which is true in-deed. During the daytime it is wonderful, but at night if it is windy, it will be chilly since gusts of wind will come rushing through the room. It was not a big deal though, and we slept through it every night and didn't catch a cold.
Go exploring islands and beaches on your own, directly from the lagoon
The best thing about the lagoon is that you have a ton of deserted beaches and islands at your disposal. Just rent a kayak and go exploring on your own. The resort has a back entrance which leads directly out to the breath-taking bay seen in the picture below. We spent a great deal of our time kayaking to the different beaches to do some sun bathing and ocean gazing. If you have a drone, you should take some air shots of this gorgeous bay since it is heart shaped when looked at from above.
How to get there & how to book
Getting there
Getting to Labengki can seem really difficult since very little information is available online, and the few informative websites that exist are meant for Indonesian natives. After some long thorough research and talking to different locals, we found out how to get there. We will now share this information with you, so you can reach this paradise on your own.
Location: South-east Sulawesi, Indonesia.
1. The first step is to make your way to Kendari in South-east Sulawesi.
There is an airport in Kendari with connections to Jakarta among others, so getting there by plane is very convenient. A flight from Jakarta directly to Kendari takes a little over 2 hours and does not cost a fortune. You can also fly from Bali, which will require a layover in Makassar for a total travel time of 3 hours including the layover. This is what we did and it was very quick, convenient and not expensive.
2. When you have made your way to Kendari, your are only a 3 hour boat ride away from paradise. The people in charge of your Labengki tour (there are various people who offer tours, which you have to be a bit careful about) will arrange the boat ride from Kendari harbor to Labengki island. The tours usually start very early, so spending the night in Kendari first is a must unless you want to miss half a day.
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About the boat tour (this can be scary)
The 3 hour boat tour was not an easy ride in our case. The boat provided is usually either a small speed boat or a so-called pompong which is a more "rough" boat to say the least. A pompong is basically the Indonesian term for a wooden makeshift boat with a noisy old diesel engine. And we had the pleasure of riding one of those. It was basically a long and narrow canoe. Now, to reach Labengki you have to sail for 3 hours in this thing, and during that time several hours will be spent on open water. This was no problem on our way out to Labengki since the weather was so calm. But on our way back... Oh boy. That was a passage from hell. In all our travels we have spent a lot of time on the sea in various shady Asian vessels, but this was definitely one of the times we were the most scared for our lives.
If you decide to read this story, don't let it scare you away from following in our footsteps. We would do it all over again, and it was just another crazy adventure to bring home. Always remember, for many of the small boats the captains are very skilled, they have been operating these boats all their lives, and life vests were provided (always make sure before you leave the harbor).
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The morning we were supposed to sail away from Labengki and back to Kendari, the weather was looking gloomy. The entire sky was covered in a gray carpet but the wind was still only moderate. After we had said our heart broken goodbyes to the amazing people at Labengki, we jumped into the pompong taking a look at the crew who would be sailing us: an old sailor and his young assistant boy. They were the same people who sailed us out to Labengki, and we knew they couldn't speak a single word of English. As the four of us set out, the sea was only a little bit choppy, nothing that the pompong couldn't smoothly sail through. But after Labengki island disappeared behind us and we faced the open sea, things began to change. The wind picked up speed, and the entire ocean began moving. Eventually the waves had grown into substantial sizes and it was frightening because they were so wide. It was like the whole ocean had one big wave at a time which just came straight towards us. At this point there wasn't any immediate feeling of danger since the waves were so wide and only came one at a time directly towards the nose of the boat. We could gently ride up on each of them and dive down on the other side even though they were considerably tall. But the fear in us were very deep because we were always afraid of what was going to happen next and thought "what if things get worse". We were in the open ocean in a small poor wooden boat with a captain who we couldn't communicate with, and in the direction we were heading there was a really intense dark black storm cloud looming which we knew we would have to sail right under. After around half an hour of these gentle but giant waves, things started to get ugly. The wind picked up speed to an intense level where our clothes and the roof of the boat started shaking around. The big and wide waves changed into tons of smaller intense waves with white tips and foam which proved a harder task for the small pompong to navigate through. Still alone in the open ocean the feeling of real danger took over. As we sat there in the roller coaster of a ride, I remembered what our local Indonesian friend Yusak at Labengki island had told us the night before. He had been on his way from Labengki to Kendari (the same route we were taking now) in a small boat with 2 other men, and they had entered bad weather in the open sea. Their motor had broken down (this is very common in small boats all over Asia) and the waves had thrown the boat in all directions. They had been holding on for their lives and praying while they drifted around for almost 5 hours until finally a big boat had come by and seen them. Yusak had been so scared and was sure he was going to die. This is a scary thing to hear from an Indonesian man who is so used to sailing.
Back on our boat things started to get even worse as the storm was now right above us. Hard rain engulfed the entire ocean and pierced through the wind at high speeds like small projectiles which really hurt all exposed skin. So we covered up in hoodies and tried to cover our eyes. The wind was ripping and the waves were now coming from all directions. Splashes of sea water from each time the nose of the boat slammed into a wave were sent directly at our faces since we were sitting in the front of the boat. This was a freezing experience. Eventually the wind grew so intense that a long section was ripped off the plastic roof of the boat, exposing us to even more wind and rain. At one time the boat was sent slamming in one direction and my hand got cut bleeding on one of the steel nails used to secure the boat's roof. Several times we looked back at the captain in fear, but he remained calm. We tried to ask him several times if this was safe, and he gave us a thumbs up which calmed us a bit even though we weren't sure if he understood what we said to him. At this time we were sailing at such an incredibly slow pace because the waves were so rough. After around 2 hours in total distress, we began to reach land and the sea became more calm. We eventually reached the harbor, totally soaked, freezing, bleeding and our backpacks were totally drenched as well.
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This was a horrible horrifying experience. Indonesia is no joking matter when it comes to boat safety. Many of their ferries and boats are old and unfit for sea travel and sometimes their captains are young and taking too big risks. Storm warnings are sometimes also ignored because the demand for sea travel in Indonesia is so big. Fatal accidents happen every year, and the death count is often high. This is something you have to consider when you travel a country like Indonesia. Always listen to your own reason and make your own decision on whether a boat is safe enough to use. And make sure there is a life vest provided for you before you embark, as this is not always the case.
You might ask us whether the trip to Labengki is safe.
It is hard to answer that question. But we would definitely do it again. It was an amazing experience, and we knew that our captain was a very skilled sailor. Also life vests were provided. Next time though, we would probably ask for a bigger speed boat instead of the small old diesel pompong.
How to book
To get to Pulau Labengki you have to book a tour with a local Indonesian company. A lot of different small companies offer tours to Labengki, but you have to be careful when you book. We were told that scammers and fake sites exist even though they look very legit. Some companies also charge you way too much, so be careful. You have to choose where you want to stay; homestay, a nearby beach or Labengki Lagoon. Labengki Lagoon is the best and most expensive option with water villas placed directly on the beautiful water. Not all companies offer accommodation there.
We wrote to several companies, but they were all very difficult to communicate with due to their slow reply rate and their poor English skills. We also weren't sure if we could trust them, and sending a large amount of money to a foreign bank account is quite intimidating when you don't know if you can trust them.
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We now have personal contact to the team that built and runs the resort at the Lagoon. They are the most legit and cheap option you can get, since they are the real owners of the place. They have an amazing English speaking guide Yusak who became our extremely close friend during our stay, and still is to this day. He took us on private tours during our stay and chilled with us every night laughing, listening to music and gazing at the stars. He was so interested in our culture and likewise we were very interested in his. We talked all the time, and he even waited for us to get up every morning so we could eat breakfast together. He definitely made the experience so much better, and he was the only English speaking person on the whole resort. When you book, make sure that the company can provide an English speaking guide. The owner of the resort who is a millionaire from Jakarta even phone-called Yusak one day to ask him if his two Danish guests (us) were enjoying themselves. The owner's wife also personally drove us from our hotel in Kendari to the harbor. We couldn't have imagined better hospitality.
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We can help you book and plan your trip.
We strive to help all of you and reply to as many inquiries as we can. But keep in mind, since this is something we do for free in our spare time, we can not guarantee that we have the time to reply to all inquiries. Regardless, you are always welcome to contact us and we wish you the best trip!